WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO TRIM A NEWLY PLANTED TREE?

    It is not necessary to trim a newly planted tree for at least the first three to five years, but should take place gradually over a period of several years. Waiting to trim gives time for the root system to grow faster and stronger. After this, trimming should be done only as necessary to enhance the natural shape and structural strength of the tree. 

    As the tree’s roots develop and your tree is in an obvious state of growing, and the new growth is extending beyond the natural contour, it may be time to trim the tree. Even though you can see that some of the lower branches are too low or are out of balance, with the crown as a whole, the importance is for the development of the trunk. 

    Lower branches are left on the trunk of the tree to manufacture food and to shade the lower bark which is often quite thin. However, if the small dead branches are trimmed, it makes your tree a healthier, happy tree. 

    For most young trees, it is good to maintain a single dominant leader. Pruning the back of this leader should not be done, nor should the secondary branches outgrow the leader. Sometimes a tree will develop double leaders known as co-dominant stems. It is best to have one of these leaders removed while the tree is young, because it can lead to structural weaknesses.

    Different trees have different growth patterns and understanding your tree’s growth pattern can better benefit your tree’s life in the long term. 

    The skirt line or lowest part of the tree is the part of the tree that catches the eye first and can be a crucial part of the overall shape. The primary skirt line can be eliminated and lifted to a secondary level, if this second tier is complete and full. If the branches are too low and you can’t mow around them without being slapped or the roof is being swallowed by this lowest tier, then it may be time for the skirt to be lifted. I prefer to leave a low skirt line cultivating and working with these branches by trimming the small branches pointing downward to the healthy branches pointing upward, leaving out the chopped or stubbed look, that is not healthy for the tree. 

    Although a person is confident to tackle a seemingly small job, it is best to consult a professional arborist for a young tree’s first trim, which is usually not for the first three to five years. 

THE DETAILS OF PLANTING A TREE

The details of tree planting can be an enjoyable experience if you consider first these essentials of selection and safety. In selecting of the type of tree you want, take into consideration, whether the tree will be planted in the shade or sun, its growth pattern, size of foliage and trunk, and its proximity to other buildings, trees or power lines. Also consider, whether you prefer trees with spring flower, summer flowers, fall colors, evergreen foliage, or a combination of these. The life span and size of the tree at maturity are other important considerations. Consulting with an experienced arborist will add confidence as well as enjoyment to your decision. For safety before digging be sure to identify the location of any underground wires, sprinkler wires, or underground pipes. 

• Digging 
    The most common mistake when planting a tree is digging a hole both too deep and too narrow. The size of the hole you are digging should be 1 ½ - 2 times the size of the root ball. When placing the tree in the hole the root ball should be 1 ½”- 2” above the ground level, putting the top of the root ball below ground level can kill the tree. When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to avoid ‘glazing’. Glazing occurs when the sides and bottom of a hole become smoothed, forming a barrier through which water has difficulty passing. To break up the glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points along the sides of the completed hole. Also, raising the center bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding area, doing this allow water to disperse, reducing the possibility of water pooling in the planting zone. 

• Backfilling 
    When backfilling the hole use the same soil that came out of the hole breaking the clumps as you go by adding water as you stab the clumps with a shovel. Be careful not to compress the backfill soil, if done this may prevent water from reaching the roots and the roots from expanding beyond the ball. For best results install 4 root wells, for watering and feeding purposes later. 

• Mulch 
    Your next step after backfilling is to select the type of mulch you would like to use. There are three types of mulch that are good to use, cedar mulch, cypress mulch, or hardwood mulch. I prefer to use hardwood mulch. The purpose of the mulch is to help retain moisture, inhibit weeds from growing on top of the root ball and protect the trunk from lawnmowers and weedeaters. There should be a ring of mulch extending to the edge of the planting pit, 3-6” deep, tapering to the trunk, do not volcano. If there is an excessive amount of mulch against the trunk it may cause fungus problems. Typically twice a year, pull any grass or anything that wants to grow on top of the root ball out of this area, add mulch as needed. 

• Watering 
    When the tree is planted the root ball should be thoroughly saturated with water. The best way to saturate the root ball is to stick the garden hose into the root well, at a slow trickle, for a few hours, half or whole day, but taking the time needed until the water is soaked deep into the ground. The tree should be watered at least twice a week for the first year in the absence of rain, more often during the height of the summer. The most beneficial time to water trees is in the early morning. The exception to the watering rule is if the rain has been good, or if the ground is still wet from the last watering. In the summer water may be needed three times a week, particularly if the tree was planted in the hottest part of the summer. 

• Feeding 
    Apply Root Stimulator (5 gallons solution) pouring solution slowly when the tree is planted and again once a month for a year. Even though purchasing one gallon of root stimulation from Home Depot will last almost a year, I prefer the organic root stimulator which may cost a little more. Avoid feeding while using root stimulator for the first year. Then feed only if you are looking for a faster rate of growth. Using organic fertilizers will keep from creating a dependency and is the best way to feed.